Manhattan Beach, CA 2001-12-10
My first attempt at surfing didn't end well. It was going pretty good for a few runs, I did the "lay on your stomach and paddle with the wave" a few times. The final time I felt ready to stand up so I popped up on the board, got knocked down, then caught in a pretty good washing machine mix of the water. When I surfaced the board was in two pieces with just the fiberglass top holding it all together...
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